All Things Polar Travel: trip options to the Arctic, Antarctic, and sub-polar regions

If you are considering a trip above or below the Arctic or Antarctic Circle respectively, it is most likely a trip about which you've dreamed about for a long time, one on your bucket list.   And unless you're fortunate enough to be in the top 0.1%, it is likely that the dent in your pocketbook will be significant.  The good news is that once you decide on a company and an itinerary the rest is relatively easy: hand over the cash and pack your bags.  The difficult part is that getting to that point, deciding on a specific company and an itinerary, can be daunting.   If you are a do it yourselfer (DIYer), you can search for, inquire to, and book directly with one of many "operators".  These are companies who actually run their own tours, and either own or charter a vessel for the trip.  Alternatively, you can choose to work with a travel agent to help you select the perfect trip for you.  While an ardent DIYer,  unless you are a very experienced traveler and thoroughly enjoy the research and multiple decisions that will be required, consider working with an agent who specializes in polar tours.  In EITHER case, it is valuable to give significant thought to the following before and throughout the planning stages of your trip.  Even if you plan to use an agent it is worth becoming familiar with the operators offering tours you are interested in so that you are an informed consumer upon engaging the agent company.  Considerations:

  • Price-in 2020 USD

    • Understand completely what is included and what is not part of the package. What activities require an additional cost? Inquire about both pre and post cruise costs as well as additional ship-board expenses. Items such as alcohol, laundry, internet, optional activity fees, and more can add up.

    • Compare “apples to apples”. Daily cost/per person can vary anywhere from just below $600 to over $5,000 USD. One company charges over $14,000 for a whirlwind 24 hours in Antarctica.

    • If activities are more important than creature comforts, you can save significant dollars by settling for a cheaper cabin with a mid priced operator. Spend your time in the common spaces, “sleep” in your cabin, and participate in all activities possible.

    • If you want the comfort of a larger stateroom, scale down in the luxuries that a company offers in order to be able to scale up in space, again, by choosing a mid priced operator. Price variation for large spaces is significant: from just over 1,000 to 5000+ USD/day/person. If you want both space AND luxury be prepared to hand over your wallet.

  • Itinerary-options seem endless, but there are many similarities between operators. Essential is the number of days actually available for activities, rather than time spent under way. Give consideration to your priorities. Wildlife is an obvious one, but how important is it that you see as many penguin species as possible? Or how interested are you in visiting South Georgia so that you can see Sir Ernest Shackleton’s grave. In the north, give consideration to whether you want an in depth tour of Svalbard, Greenland, the Canadian Arctic, the Northeast or Northwest passage, or if your goal is to get to the North pole (think the nuclear icebreaker 50 Years of Victory). Obviously, the number of days you have available affects greatly these choices, to say nothing of the size of your pocketbook.

  • What do you value more? Creature comforts of the ship or the activities that will take place off the ship, whether on the water, the ice, or on land.

    • Ship considerations

      • Size-preferably < 200 passengers for greatest flexibility in landings, vs. fewer options or cruising only. IF you want to get “on the ice” and engage in other activities, an expedition type ship is definitely advised. The “sweet spot” is 100-200 passengers. While a ship accommodating fewer than 100 may give even greater flexibility, it also certainly will result in a ship that is smaller, more prone to rough seas, and with fewer redundant systems. Conversely, if watching beautiful scenery while shipboard is more your style, then a larger ship, even a cruise ship, may be just the thing.

      • Safety-along with the safety record of the company is the safety record of the ship. Realize that many companies charter ships which belong to another company or operator. Research the ship itself including items such as its “ice class rating”, whether it has fully enclosed lifeboats to handle the entire complement of passengers and crew, or if there is a doctor on board. The more adventurous the itinerary, the more these factors are important. Accidents DO happen; size and resources of a company (whomever owns the ship as well as the operator) ARE critical in their ability to respond. Be clear, you will not be taking a trip to the Caribbean; rogue waves, damaging seas, and other accidents CAN and DO happen, and may happen on your ship that is far from help. Read about Polar Class ice status here and inquire about the Polar Class of your boat, especially if your voyage is spending significant time in the far north or south. Especially if you will be spending significant amounts of time on land in the Antarctic do not be afraid to ask about safety features and redundant systems.

      • Creature and shipboard comforts-the size of a stateroom for a given cost is critical if you value your time on the ship over activities. Equally important if the ship is not new is when it was last refurbished, whether your cabin will have a private lavatory, number of restaurants, additional facilities such as gyms, spas, theatres, educational options, and more. Newer ship designs often have technology solutions to decrease ship roll and improve stability. This can decrease the likelihood though not eliminate the possibility of sea-sickness. Look at the passenger to crew ratio. At the higher end you will want to know about suites, windows, and balconies. The social atmosphere is equally important. Different companies and ships have different demeanors. This will be affected by both the size and the nationalities of the passenger manifest. Don’t be afraid to ask about this to ensure that your style will be compatible with your shipmates’. While many of us enjoy diversity and interacting with travelers from different countries and cultures, others prefer “fish of the same stripe”.

    • Activities-fully understand what activities are offered, whether there are additional fees, methods of engaging in those activities, e.g. Zodiacs, and most importantly whether the activity level for the trip matches your physical abilities and overall health. If you are not keen about getting in and out of a pitching Zodiac, or if you have physical limitations, you may want to consider a trip with a less active agenda. “Time on ice”, i.e. time spent actually engaging in activities is critical; the smaller the ship and group size, the less waiting and more flexibility you are likely to have. Other important factors: the guide:group size ratio, the number of non-crew professionals (e.g. naturalists, geologists, climatologists, etc.), the presence of any polar luminaries on the cruise, and the number of educational opportunities that are offered outside of the off-ship activities themselves.

  • Company commitments

    • The environment-many companies give lip service to the environment on their web site. In general newer ships are more friendly environmentally as they use marine gas oil (MGO), are more energy efficient, have dynamic positioning systems that don’t require anchoring (sea floor damage), use catalysts to remove nitrogen dioxide emissions, have both desalination and biological gray water/sewage treatment systems, and use biological lubricants. Consider the environmental impact of getting to Antarctica by plane if you are thinking of skipping the Drake passage or engaging in a land based expedition.

    • Memberships-in AECO, IAATO, and other environmental/preservation related groups; while not a guarantee, this is another indicator of a company’s “investment” in the sustainability of the polar regions.

  • Companies-this list represents many (though not all) of the major companies operating tours to the Arctic and/or Antarctic regions, both polar and sub-polar. It is neither complete nor does it represent an endorsement of any company listed. Those companies with either non-English web sites or without price transparency on their site are not listed. Note that most companies offer itineraries to both polar and non-polar locations. Those which are polar focused only are indicated (does not represent an endorsement). Several of the larger travel agents specializing in polar travel are also listed. For additional information on these companies, check out two other resources: the International Antarctic Association of Tour Operators (IAATO) and the Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators (AECO). These two industry facing organizations work to shepard and promote industry self-regulation to ensure the safety and sustainability of polar tourism. Note that both charge a significant fee for membership.

  • Tour Agents (not all inclusive)